The 1895 neo-baroque theatre by Fellner & Helmer, opened by Emperor Franz Joseph I — Meštrović’s “Well of Life” fountain stands on the square in front. The 850-seat auditorium’s ceiling was painted by Alexander Demetrius Goltz; the hour-long guided tour goes properly behind the scenes — dressing rooms, workshops, an underground tunnel — and you’re allowed photos even on stage. 4.8★ (10.3K Google). Performances sell out weeks ahead; the online booking can be awkward for foreign cards, so email or visit the box office.

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