Terraced seating on the steps above the harbor with the Old Town spread out below — the setting does half the work, and the kitchen does the rest. This is modern-konoba cooking rather than grandmother’s recipes: oxtail gnocchi, tuna tartare, veal, and a chocolate soufflé that closes the meal properly. Waiter Vedran gets name-checked in reviews for talking guests through the whole menu. One of those places people call the best meal of their trip.

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