The place Dubrovnik regulars drive to when the Old Town prices start to feel like a joke. A family-run konoba right on the water in Sustjepan, doing generous Dalmatian cooking — cuttlefish-ink risotto, homemade scampi pasta, grilled fish, and an apple pie reviewers keep mentioning by name. Owner Ivan Kapetanić answers reviews personally, which tells you most of what you need to know about how the place is run. Dinner-only, book ahead, take the bus and watch the city lights on the way back.

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